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Metal squeegees

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AA

#36983

Metal squeegees | 5 October, 2005

We want to transition into metal squeegees. What are the considerations during this transition?

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#36987

Metal squeegees | 6 October, 2005

The obvious is size. Besides that, it depends on your screen printer. Some "smart heads" need to be retaught with the metal blades for each board. Some need to have the set-up programmed changed too. Angle of attack is something to double check as well.

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#36989

Metal squeegees | 6 October, 2005

If a rubber squeege is bumped on the edge, no biggee. But you have to be carefull the metal ones don't get dinged. All it takes is a little extra care but if your operators are used to handling the rubber one they might not increase the amount of care handling them.

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RDR

#36991

Metal squeegees | 6 October, 2005

in addition, your prints may have a larger volume from the reduction of scooping from the rubber blades.

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#36997

Metal squeegees | 6 October, 2005

Stephen reminded me of another issue - be careful when handling or wiping new metal blades. They can cut you (oh the pain).

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PWH

#37002

Metal squeegees | 6 October, 2005

Holders and blades can be spendy. "JNJ" is good place to get aftermarket stuff (I have no affiliation with them). I've also found laser cut metal blades work fairly good and are cheap. Your stencil supplier might be able to cut them for you if you have a drawing for them. JNJ sells blades that have a plating on them. They work a lot better than laser cut stainless blades but are much more costly (cost ratio is about 1:10 for us). You'll want to have new blades installed periodically on a maintenance schedule as they will get sort of a rainbow/bowed effect going after a while. Try to use blades that closely match the width of the print job to minimize this effect.

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AA

#37108

Metal squeegees | 12 October, 2005

Hi, Thanks for the answers.

I have a few others:

How often you replace metal squeegees? Do they shorten the life of the stencil?

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